Rio Usumacinta

Sights and sounds foreign to our experience excite the senses and stimulate curiosity. After night falls, the rhythmic droning of tree frogs give way to the deep roars of howler monkeys and soon the raucous cries of parrots greet the misty dawn. Shifting patterns of green and red accompany the labored wing beat of the scarlet macaw.

Over a thousand years ago, these shores teemed with human life. The Rio Usumacinta and her tributaries watched the rise and fall of Maya civilization. From 200 A.D. to 900 A.D. great cities and ceremonial centers arose in the jungle, the sacred river of the monkey god serving as their highway and method of commerce. Giant cayucos carved from the sacred ceiba tree loaded with goods, tools, crafts and even slaves made their way up and down the tree laden meanders of the Usumacinta.

Dynasties flourished and spread their influence, only to experience the ultimate disappointment of power: decadence, decline, decay and demise. Experts claim that by 1000 A.D the great cities of the Maya were all but abandoned, mysteriously bringing to a close a civilization whose cities housed and estimated 15-20 million people and whose sphere of influence and power stretched from modern day Nicaragua to the American Southwest.

Our journey takes us to two epicenters of the mayan world–the capitols of the powerful jungle city-states of Yaxchilan and Piedras Negras. These sites have contributed immensely to our understanding of mayan culture, daily life, and their writing system. Our itinerary allows for a full day of exploration at each of these fascinating jungle ruins.

No perfect river trip would be complete without whitewater. The first portion of this trip is typified by lazy currents, large meanders and eddies, and patient observation of the rainforest around us for any intriguing flora or fauna that might present itself. The last few days of the trip present us with high volume class II-III rapids, whirlpools and powerful eddy lines.

Two major canyons guard this stretch of the Usumacinta and accompany our exit from the river. The San Jose and San Josecito canyon’s large pockmarked limestone walls tower at heights of up to 2000 ft and secretly covet swaths of inaccessible virgin rainforest. The channel narrows to a fraction of its normal width, and the usumacinta roars as it funnels down through these narrow confines.

The maya considered these gorges to be the entrance to Xibalba, their underworld. You will remember the canyons as a stirring finale to one of the most exciting and stimulating trips of your life.